DIY Outdoor Barnside Couch Plans

🔥+ DIY Outdoor Barnside Couch Plans 06 Jun 2020 Discover ideas about Wood Deck Plans. Wanda Green presents the coolest photographs of Marvelous Deck Drawings Basic Deck Building Plans on ...

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on the floor. If they don't, try filing the Top o' the Slot 'til all four feet are securely  touching the floor.    Attach guides for the table legs Painted and sealed table top  with installed guides  Center the tabletop on the legs and mark lines on the underside of the table along the edges of the  legs. Glue and screw eight pieces of 1" x 2" pine along the marks to create grooves for the leg  pieces to slide into. Add hook-and-eye latches to lock 'em.    Finished Table Finished Table detail  Sand and paint the trunk and top. Now mix up some paint and paste and call the little ones.  (To prevent spillage, I was tempted to jigsaw circular cup holders into each corner for paint. But  perhaps that just teaches children to be overconfident. It's your call.)     Aesop\u2019s Tables - Page 4 of 4  150 Woodworking Project Plans/Kneeling Chair.pdf 1 The wooden kneeling chair By D. Janosev  Eleven pieces of just about any hardwood found around the shop is enough to build it. OK, so you need some basic machines and power tools. If you have them, the rest is self-explanatory. 2 The idea behind this chair is to shift a part of your weight from the old gluteus maximus to your knees, hence the kneeling chair.It forces you to sit up straight and offers a couple of hours of comfortable seating. It took me about two days to build, paint and upholster the whole thing.No big deal as you see below\u2026 Check out the sandpaper patches. They were glued there to  prevent the seat from slipping Just stick to the dimensions on the drawings below and you can\u2019t go wrong.I used ordinary white glue and 10mm bolts to connect the moving parts.When everything was done I covered the bolts with chrome caps\u2026 If you plan to use leather for the seat, be sure to put paper on both sides of it before running it through the sewing machine..otherwise it sticks and makes a general mess of things..good luck! 3 4 That\u2019s it. If you experience any problems feel free to write to me at: [email protected] 150 Woodworking Project Plans/Knockdown Work Support.pdf Knockdown Work Support    When cutting sheet goods or assembling a large project, an extra work surface sure comes  in handy. But I don't have room in my shop for a permanent "fixture."    So instead, I use a work surface that "knocks down" in  seconds. The key is a pair of metal joist hangers attached to  each of my sawhorses, see photo above. (Joist hangers are  available at most home centres.)    The hanger\u2019s act as "pockets" that hold a couple of 2x4  stretchers, as shown in the drawing below. Fitting the ends  of the stretchers down into the joist hangers creates a large,  sturdy work support.    To keep the stretchers from accidentally slipping  out of the hangers, they fit onto a metal pin in each  hanger. This "locking" pin is just a bolt that passes  through a hole drilled in the joist hanger, as shown  in the drawing at right. Tightening a nut on the end  of each bolt holds it in place. To fit the stretcher  over the bolt and nut, all you need to do is drill a  pair of counter bores near the end of each  stretcher.      150 Woodworking Project Plans/Layout Jig.pdf Lay-out Tool  The idea for this layout tool came up as  the Woodsmith shop foreman, Steve  Curtis, was preparing to install plywood  back in a cabinet. The plans called for a  large number of woodscrews to be  placed evenly around the edge of the  plywood. That was a lot of screws to lay  out, so Steve decided to make the job  easier.    To mark all the screw holes the same  distance in from the edge of the plywood  back, he mounted a ruler on a piece of  scrap wood, see photo. This eliminated  the need for a tape measure.    First, Steve cut the piece of scrap 3½"  wide and to match the length of his ruler  (12"). Then he cut a shallow rabbet along  one edge to hold the rule in position.    But Steve cut the width of the rabbet  narrower than his rule. That way, it  overhung the edge of the scrap. And the  amount of overhang equalled the inset  he wanted for the position of the screw  holes.    After we saw Steve's clever layout tool,  we though it could be made even more  useful by cutting a rabbet on the other  three edges of the tool, too, see photo.  This way, the tool can be used to lay out  screw holes that require different inset.    A layout tool helps when marking many screw  holes all inset the same distance. It can be used  to mark four different-size inserts.    150 Woodworking Project Plans/Leg Leveller.pdf Leg Leveller    Most shop floors are uneven. So whenever I build a  shop-made tool stand, I allow for some handy leg  levellers. (They add about 2" to the height of the  stand.)    The thing that\u2019s unusual about this leveller is the  rubber tip on the bottom. This keeps the stand from  \u201cwalking\u201d across the shop floor shop if there\u2019s any  vibration produced by the tool.    The rubber tip is nothing more than the pad from the  bottom end of a crutch. (I picked them up at a local  hardware store for about 75 cents apiece.) The  crutch tip fits over a dowel that has a hole drilled in it  to accept a carriage bolt, as you can see in the  drawing at right.    After slipping on a washer and hex nut, the bolt  threads into a T-nut installed in the bottom of the leg. Note: To provide clearance for the bolt as you adjust  the leveller, you\u2019ll need to drill a deep shank hole for  the T-nut, as shown in the Cross Section drawing at  right.    The only thing to keep in mind when using the  leveller is the nut has to be tight. This keeps the  dowel from spinning as you adjust the leveller.    Have a nice weekend,    Bryan Nelson  Online Editor, Shop Notes                150 Woodworking Project Plans/Lock Rabbet Drawer Joints.pdf Lock Rabbet Drawer Joints      Although you  can build  drawer joints  using any  number of  methods, we  think lock- rabbet joints  like the ones  below make  sense for  attaching the  sides, fronts,  and backs of  most drawers.  Although not  as strong as a  dovetailed  joint, a well- made lock- rabbet joint  will hold up  fine unless the drawer takes heavy,  regular pounding. And, it's  much simpler to cut than dovetails.    Note: Before you start, make sure that all of your drawer front stock is the same  thickness (about 3/4"). Also, your sides and backs should be identically thick (about  1/2").    1 To protect the face of your table saw fence from blade cuts, attach a 6"-high wood  auxiliary fence to it. Install a 1/4"-wide dado set, and adjust the fence so the dado set  just grazes it.    Use your 1/2"-thick stock for the drawer side or back to adjust the height of the dado  set to match the thickness of that material as shown in above illustration. Make a  1/4x1/2" rabbet cut in a 3/4x3x3" scrap "gauge block" positioned face down on your  saw. Nestle your drawer side or back into the rabbet to double-check that the depth of  the cut matches the thickness of the 1/2" stock. Save this gauge block.          2 Readjust the fence-to-dado set distance to match the width  of the rabbet cut in the gauge block. As shown in above  illustration, the edge of the rabbet should meet the dado set teeth  closest to the fence. Use a square to hold the gauge block 90°  to the fence.    3 Position a drawer front on edge with its back face a the fence. Now, cut 1/4x1/2" grooves in both ends as shown left. Do this to all of your  drawer fronts.      gainst  5 Place a drawer side outside face up on the saw, butt either end against the fence, and