Swing Set With Climbing Wall

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Swing Set With Climbing Wallhow to Swing Set With Climbing Wall for Discussion in '' started by sean79, Jun 29, 2007.

  1. sean79 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Very simply, do you just have three parts?
    1. The box (probably closed back)
    2. The speaker(s)
    3. An input jack

    Are there any other parts needed?

    I know it has to be more complicated/confusing. Let's say, for example, I want to build a 2x10 bass cabinet. If I get two 10 inch speakers rated 150 watts RMS at 8 ohms and wire them into a 2x10 cabinet, does that mean the cab can handle 300 watts RMS?

    And... can't one wire the two speakers in various ways to get different ohm ratings... down to four or up to ?????? Can they be wired to different input jacks to give a person options (based on the amp)?

    And... I've seen the charts and tables that discuss porting and sizing of cabinets, but I can't make heads or tails of that confusing stuff. For a simple first build, do I need to worry about porting a 2x10 bass cabinet?

    As always, any advice, input, and/or suggestions appreciated.
     
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    Swing Set With Climbing Wallhow to Swing Set With Climbing Wall for winny pooh Friend of Leo''s

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    +1. The electrical resistance is shared by the two (in the case of a dual driver cab) resistors/speakers.

    I'd also like to point out that there are indeed some legit concerns about the size and shape of bass cabs, but the phase cancellations you're most likely to encounter in a reasonable sized cabinet probably won't instantly make it complete crap. They're more likely to simply weaken the response in specific frequency bands. Yeah, you can bone yourself, but that doesn't mean it takes an advanced degree to build a decent cab. IIRC, the popular Genz Benz 2x12 guitar cabs were engineered carefully, but there were also a whole heck of a lot of prototypes build while the company was actually tuning the ports by ear rather than by calculator.
     
  3. Mark Davis Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Back in the mid 70's we made our own cabinets from some plans we got from JBL. They turned out fantastic. You might look around on the web see if you can find those JBL speaker box plans.
     
  4. sean79 Poster Extraordinaire

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    So... if I make a box to these dimensions and mount and wire my speakers properly, it shouldn't sound like ass??? I know they have the porting stuff figured out, and I don't. But I don't expect to build a super-great cabinet the first time out. However it turns out, I don't really have anything to compare it to... so it would probably have to be real bad for me to notice it was bad.

    What's that 4kHz crossover point on the Genz Benz cabinet? Is that something else I have to worry about?

    And... the "porting" on that Genz Benz cabinet looks different than some of the others I've seen in pictures. Do the round ports have some kind of tube in them? Are they just "vents" for air and/or pressure to escape?

    I looked around the web a little for some JBL plans... didn't find any, but I may keep looking.

    Thanks again.
     
  5. Jun 30, 2007 Jun 30, 2007 Swing Set With Climbing Wallhow to Swing Set With Climbing Wall for #13

    Ben Harmless Friend of Leo''s

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    The horn is the smaller driver (aka tweeter) that's mounted in the cab along with the two 10-inchers. The crossover is a little component that mounts inside the box which separates the speaker-level signal (from the amp) by frequency. Everything over 4k is sent to the horn and everything below is sent to the 10-inchers. The reasoning here is that the two different driver types can handle those respective frequency ranges much more efficiently than either one can handle the full range. Lots of bass cabs are built with horns, and some have controls for adjusting the amount of the highs that the horn actually puts out, (including zero) so that you can somewhat set the brightness to taste. Many other bass cabs are built without horns at all - such as the classic Ampeg 8x10 "fridge" cab.

    Overall, the horn is just an attempt to offer greater high-end definition. It's not always necessary, and I don't personally feel like I need one in a bass cabinet.
     
  6. Swing Set With Climbing Wallhow to Swing Set With Climbing Wall for sean79 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks Ben. I thought the "crossover" might be something like that, but I didn't think that Genz Benz cabinet I was looking at had anything in it other than the two 10 inch speakers. As long as it's something I don't have to worry about, I'm sure I can handle it. Appreciate the explanation.
     
  7. Swing Set With Climbing Wallhow to Swing Set With Climbing Wall for

    Dacious Poster Extraordinaire

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    the 1 last update 2020/07/06
    Firstly: speakers' power handling is cumulative, provided they are all the same impedance. If they are all the same efficiency you will get similar ouput. So whether you connect series, or parallel, or series-parallel you will get 100w power handling out of 4 x 25 w speakers.

    Secondly - if you are going to copy a cabinet, there are a number of parameters you should check if you are going to use a different make/model of speaker to what the cabinet has installed stock ensure they are compatible. As well as choosing your cabinet resonance, a number of other parameters like the resonant frequency of the speaker. With guitar speakers where we don't dislike distortion we might not care if the resulting cabinet compresses or supresses certain bandwidth.

    With bass or PA cabs, you do. You probably want as flat a response as possible. The speaker driver has parameters like volume, the way it behaves electrically and mechanically, resonant frequency, its' upper and lower usable freqs and even things like the internal bracing of the cabinet are a factor. Just putting in a different speaker or putting it in a changed cabinet dimensionally may alter want you want. If the enclosure is oversize for the power of the amp and driver, you will lose response in the bottom.

    There are programs on the web which will help design a cabinet. You need a bass reflex design preferrably for bass, rather than a sub-type which is optimised for very low freqs.

    If you are a slapper, you probably need to design in a horn with a crossover- otherwise you can cook very expensive bass speakers with the short, hi-freq repetitive motions.
     
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